Puppy package includes many things already mentioned PLUS

- a small photo album of pics of their puppy in the early weeks
   (including nice pics of mom, of dad, of pup with littermates)
- copies of the record of growth during the early weeks
- copies of the pedigree
- copies of health certifications on parents (at least hips, eyes)
- copies of health certifications on puppies (at least BAER tracings)
- names and addresses and emails of littermates (whose owners are willing
to share this info) (makes a great support group as their pups go through stages at more or less the same time) and
- a piece of lightly-used unwashed (but not filthy) bedding so the puppy
has something that smells like his/her first home

Additions to whelping cart:

   - A SMALL BIN/Box to set near the whelping box, into which to put pups when Mom is delivering another and may be restive... I have a pleasing shaped rectangular one bought at Walmart with holes in the removable top so that it can also be used to transport pups to vet for dew claws...

-   A HEATING PAD of appropriate size to fit inside the puppy warm box... (many whelping locales  are NOT  in warm climates!)  An adjustable dial is helpful.  This is also useful on the Dew Claw trip,  since one can transport pups therein and simply plug it in at the vets, and the pups don't need to 'touch'  much there, other than the vet's hands and a sterile cover on the examining table.

  - A HEAT LAMP for over the whelping box.  I've found the CERAMIC   style is best, perhaps procured in the reptile dept. of a pet store.  It should be arranged in an adjustable manner, will likely come with  a protective guard around the ceramic 'bulb', and doesn't radiate heat beyond the area below it, better for the dam who can place her head and upper body out of its range.

- A pad of some sort for KNEELING  humans during the long whelping hours, and subsequent care.  Perhaps a  patio chair pad that can be stretched conveniently on the floor.

- Water bowl for the dam... maybe a second one for chicken broth...
(she likely won't take any liquid till whelping finished)

- camera!

- "Rescue Remedy'" or brandy or other stimulant to help revive a sagging newborn...

- Large supply of SMALL wipe down TOWELS -- one goes through an astonishing number riubbing down newborns.

- Bottle of PEDIOLYTE or other brand.  One can add some to dam's water, sometimes syringe a little into a pup's mouth to help sustain a small or weak one.  Vet may tell you to use this, so have some on hand.

- Have a WEIGHT CHART all prepared in advance on which to enter the progressing weights.  In the beginning you'll be weighing pups at least twice a day maybe more often..

- If all pups look virtually identical (my specialty became blacks with small white markings on chests) you might want to make them little RICKRACK necklaces in varying colours.  It ties tightly because of the zigzag design, they never noticed it nor did the dam.  Every week I would replace it with a longer one.

- NAIL CUTTING snippers for the pups.  I obtain a Gerber's Baby nail clipper from baby dept in pharmacies, and some people find a kitty tool.  This is a burdensome task, done frequently!
 

  Re. cleaning up the dam after whelping.  Sometimes her rear quarters are really a mess.  Not much you can do initially, since she ONLY wants to be with those pups who need her to an equal degree.
But over the next few days -- when the dreaded diarrhea may strike, possibly repeatedly --  you will WISH to clean her up, but what to do?  You can't keep her away from pups for long, she'll get frantic...you can't bathe her which would require drying or pups chilled, since she would never submit calmly to such  prolonged fussing... so...

ABSOLUTELY NATURAL 'GROOMING AID'  is a product I highly recommend... it works a bit like a no-rinse shampoo, smells great, and helps hugely.   Spray her rear end liberally, and wipe the area  with a towel.... not as good as a wash/bath, but will take care of business in that first week or ten days when you cannot remove her from pups long enough for a proper cleanup.
(and by the way, I don't cut down my girlies before they whelp a litter, except for trimming around nipples... I strive to keep coat, and develop a few strategies to do so while they are in the whelping box nursing.... it's not difficult.)

Whelping idea...instead of using newspaper or towels in your whelping
box, use incontinence pads. They soak up way more fluids. The washable
kind can usually be purchased slightly used from nursing homes. the
large size are a bit bigger than a bath towel. They will last for many
litters. If you really don't like washing up, you can also use the
disposable kind, though that is more expensive.
 

My girls like to deliver puppies in a Veri-Kennel crate.  I disconnect the top portion & remove the door while they are in the nesting stage.  Once they start delivering puppies I remove the top for better access & view.  The girls seem to like using the sides of the crate for pushing against while having contractions. 

After clamping the cord with hemostats I use precut lengths of dental floss to tie off the cord before cutting.

For the first 3 weeks Mom & puppies are in my bedroom in a 3 x 3 raised floor puppy pen. For heat I have found (credit goes to my friends with Afghan Hounds) a wonderful heat source called a "SweeterHeater" which lays across the top of the 3 x 3 pen.  The heater emits a soft even heat - the heating surface is warm - not hot enough to burn if touched. The floor of the pen can be raised or lowered depending on how much heat is needed to maintain comfort for both Mom & puppies.

To keep puppies together during weeks 1 & 2 Mom & puppies are most comfortable in the crate bottom placed in the 3 x 3 pen. The crate bottom and the raised wire floor are covered with a heavy fleece fabric cut to size.  Because the fleece wicks the moisture away from the surface Mom & puppies are never on a damp surface.
Another benefit of using the crate inside the pen is that Mom can take a break from the puppies & still be near.